Bulgaria: Rodopi Mountains

Most Inspirational Moment

Finding clear sign of wild brown bears - scat, overturned stones and a bear paw print set INTO the tyre tread of a jeep - which had passed us on the forest track only five minutes previously! Seeing raptors flying, possibly peregrine or maybe a saker falcon.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Svetoslava was an excellent guide. She was organised and fully explained each day's activities including timings etc. She is also qualified in bear studies.

Advice for Potential Travellers

The hotel is meticulously kept by the family owners, who clearly take pride in their hotel. For example, every morning over an early coffee I saw even the patio being swept clean. Every day. The food is prepared with fresh produce and is very good. The bathroom is a wet room (without a separate shower enclosure) and there is a plastic bowel for washing shirt and smalls if you wish. (Take half a dozen pegs). The mountain tracks can be a little stony in places, a good boot with ankle support is useful on those days. There are some short but steep ascents to be prepared for, but the views are well worth it. The hotel's tap water is quite safe to drink and there are also mountain streams and these have a tap dispense in places for bottle re-filling, but in hot months one or two may be dry - the guide will inform you. Carrying two litres of water is sensible. Take a wetproof top though - just in case of rain even if it looks like it won't, and a plastic sealed container for the lunch sandwich. The trails were not heavily used and there was a sense of having the place to ourselves. The forest tracks open into wide meadows, here the air shimmers with the beating wings of butterflies. Look above for birds, buzzards and raptors were frequently seen. The wall creeper eluded us this time though. Snakes? Never saw any, as they was well gone, alerted by the vibration of our footfall, or else our scent. You are in the realm of wildlife. Chamois were seen as were the signs of wild boar. You are also in bear country. We saw bear droppings and overturned stones where they had been looking for food under. We saw a tree with bear fur trapped in the bark where they had rubbed their backs, and then the bear paw print noted above. It's important to remember though that there is little risk here. Svetoslava explained that any bear would have heard us through our normal walking noise or the inevitable chit-chat amongst the group and would have moved off, or like the snakes detected our smell with the same result. So although it is exciting to know these animals are present, it is equally reassuring to know there is little risk either. I carried a small pair of 8 x 32 binoculars. The border "dead zone" (in communist times) is an interesting day, perhaps take a torch that day to go into the interior troops' bunker, and there are also T72 or PT76 pits each with a concrete shelter for its crew to have a look at. Peace, quiet, thick forests, open meadows with beautiful vistas, cool crystal clear streams, beautiful butterflies and raptors. But it is the presence of the brown bears which sets this trip apart. Like Orpheus you will always want to look back, but in your case with a much happier outcome than his!

Most Inspirational Moment

Probably when our tour leader confided that he is housing in his roof both a large colony of horseshoe bats AND stone martens (which I had never heard of before). Talk about walking the walk as a conservationist..

Thoughts on Group Leader

Excellent. As a walking leader, Julian had put great thought into a lovely variety of walks; his relationship with the people in Yagodina and the hotel is deeply impressive and it felt as though we got special treatment because of him; and his knowledge of the wildlife is HUGE. An expert on bears, but so much more besides. And he is good company

Advice for Potential Travellers

Trip notes are very good, so nothing to add there. I thought that it was worth spending an extra day at the end to visit Sofia, especially as I was able to get a more convenient flight home that way

Thoughts on Group Leader

Excellent. A very Knowledgeable individual with extensive knowledge of the mountains and the flora and fauna. Keen to share his expertise.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Excellent throughout

Most Inspirational Moment

Loved the information about the bears - I felt very privileged to be able share their territory.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Julian is an excellent leader. He is friendly and unbelievably knowledgable, calm and organised with an enormous passion and respect for the Rodopi Mountains.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Book now if you love being immersed in nature.

Most Inspirational Moment

Walking through the meadows seeing all of the varieties of wild flowers, including many orchids as well as moths & butterflies, many that we have not seen before!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Julian stepped in at the last minute to lead our group & he was just brilliant! He has lived & studied brown bears in the region for many years & was eager to pass his knowledge on to us! It's fair to say that his enthusiasm was infectious so by the 2nd day we were all spotting signs of bear activity including scat! He allowed people to take the walk at their own pace & was happy to educate us on the massive variety of flora & fauna we saw along the way! The weather was often rainy in the afternoons so Julian swapped walks around so that we remained safe & avoided most of the bad weather!

Advice for Potential Travellers

The weather in the mountains can change very quickly so defiantly take waterproof jackets & leggings that you can put on easily! Be flexible! Again, the weather means that walks were changed or moved days but this is to ensure that you are safe & can enjoy spectacular views on the higher walks on the better days!

Most Inspirational Moment

Walking the plank at the Eagle's eye

Thoughts on Group Leader

Fantastic and inspirational. Passionate and happy to share his extensive knowledge of the country and region. Excellent walk leader - pace and support for strugglers.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Take a microfibre cloth to dry the bathroom floor. Take tea bags - although the herbal tea is fine, really missed a good cuppa. Consider adding an extra day or two at the end to explore Sofia.

Most Inspirational Moment

This isn't the sort of trip that has one stand out moment, the experience and enjoyment builds through the week to give you a really satisfying glow at the end.

Thoughts on Group Leader

We were lucky, we had two, both of whom were excellent, on the top of their game, and with a great sense of humour. Svetla was always cheerful, knowledgeable and helpful. Here unusual academic background in anthropology and a host of other subjects meant that she could impart a lot of very interesting insights into the social as well as natural environment. Julian has an encyclopedic knowledge of the area and years spent in bear research which gave us the bonus of having his enthusiasm and expertise, as a result of which I can now identify a worrying number of species by their poo! They were both great fun to be with and I would very happily sign up for a trip knowing they were the leader.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Come and enjoy it! Make sure you have a reasonable level of fitness, bring a plug for the wash basin and think about doing an extra couple of days in Sofi,a either at the start or the end of the trip, it would be time well spent. Mountain weather can be variable, so come prepared.

Most Inspirational Moment

Everyone mentions the lunch stops - but it was so lovely looking at the wildflowers, the birds and the views. There are not many places left in Europe that are so unspoilt. We rarely saw other people when we were out walking. Finding bear paw prints on a walk through some woods was unexpected!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Nelly was excellent. One of the best guides I have encountered on a holiday. She spoke English fluently and was a good communicator with the group. Her knowledge of the local flora and fauna was extensive. She gave us a lot of background on the history and culture of Bulgaria. She was very helpful and attentive to the needs of the group.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I spent an extra day in Sofia and I can recommend this. There is a lot to see in the city centre. The Metro system is easy to use and cheap. Be prepared for showers when out walking and take lots of sunscreen.