Mexico: Maya, Aztecs & Conquistadors Day of the Dead Festival (Romerillo)

Welcome to Mexico City, a pulsating capital that would take a lifetime to fully explore (though we see some of the many highlights over the next couple of days). We gather at the hotel today, with a welcome meeting this evening: the perfect opportunity to get to know each other a little and ask any questions you may have.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Those on the group flights normally arrive in Mexico City in the evening. Land only passengers can arrive at any time.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Today we head to the ancient city of Teotihuacan, which reached its zenith around 1,000CE when it was the sixth biggest city in the world (population: about 125,000). Among the avenues and structures here are the pyramids of the Sun and the Moon, the third and fourth largest pyramids in the world. We explore this impressive archaeological zone with an expert local guide to unearth the secrets of the site.

Returning to Mexico City, we visit the historic centre on a walking tour based around the Zocalo (main square) and the Catedral Metropolitana. Our exploration starts in the main square, one of the biggest in the world; it was an important gathering place for the Aztecs, and remains so in modern Mexico, often hosting book fairs and concerts. On the north side is the Catedral Metropolitana, the largest cathedral in the Americas. It was built over El Templo Mayor, an Aztec temple, as a show of Spanish power. Our tour finishes outside the magnificent Palacio de Bellas Artes, an art nouveau masterpiece with a facade made of Carrara marble.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Today we explore the bohemian side of Mexico City. We start by heading south to Casa Azul, a house hidden behind cobalt-blue walls (visit subject to availability). This is where the acclaimed artist Frida Kahlo was born, grew up and, eventually, lived with her muralist husband Diego Rivera until her death in 1954. Now a museum, the colonial house showcases the collections and personal effects of the two great artists and provides a window into the life of affluent Mexican bohemians in the first half of the 20^th century.

Next, we visit the quaint neighbourhood of Coyoacán, which has pebbled streets, colonial churches, bustling little markets and quiet squares. This area was inhabited before the arrival of the Spanish and it is said that conquistador Hernan Cortes made it the first capital of New Spain.

Finally, we enjoy a relaxing ride on a pre-Hispanic boat along the peaceful waters of the Xochimilco canals. These scenic waterways were used by the Aztecs and today see us enjoying a relaxing journey past floating gardens and little floating kitchens selling local food.

We return to our hotel in the late afternoon.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Before leaving Mexico City, we visit the Museum of Anthropology and History, which has an impressive collection of artefacts from the many civilisations of Mexico.

Then, starting our journey east, we head to the Great Pyramid of Cholula, also known as Tlachihualtepetl (approximately a two-hour drive). Considered to be the largest pyramid in the world, the structure has a fascinating history dating back to the 3rd century BCE.

In the afternoon, we arrive into the colonial city of Puebla de los Angeles, a city known for having an exquisite gastronomic heritage and fine artisanal traditions, including the sought-after talavera pottery.

Accommodation: Hotel Colonial Puebla (or similar)

We spend this morning discovering Puebla, visiting the Patio de los Azulejos and the ex-Convent of Santa Rosa, both of which provide classic examples of how talavera tiles were incorporated into buildings, inside and out. Early settlers who came from Talavera de la Reina in Spain introduced these tiles and associated ceramics. Today the glazed pottery has become synonymous with Puebla.

After our tour, we drive to Oaxaca (about five hours). With a colonial centre of shaded pedestrian streets, indigenous traditions and a creative atmosphere, Oaxaca has attracted and inspired many artists and artisans.

The city has a beautiful zocalo (main square), cathedral and the vast Convento de Santo Domingo, along with museums, fascinating markets and charming inns.

Accommodation: Hotel Oaxaca Real or Hotel Victoria

Our next exploration of Mexican history takes us to the Zapotecan site of Monte Albán. While the name dates to a 16th-century Spanish landowner, previous names come from the Mixtec word sahandevul (at the foot of the sky) or the Zapotecan danibaan (sacred mountain). In 500 BCE, the Zapotecs moved into the Oaxaca region and began the monumental task of levelling the top of a 5,250ft (1,600m) high mountain that intersects and divides three valleys. Here they built the city of Monte Albán with a maze of subterranean passageways, rooms, drainage and water-storage systems.

From here, we head to San Antonio Arrazola, which is renowned for its imaginative wood carvings. It was in 1936 that Pedro Linares, inspired by a dream, started producing colourful animal figures made of papier-mâché, which he called alebrijes. This folk art is now known throughout the world.

Afterwards, we return to Oaxaca to explore the cobbled streets, vibrant squares and many churches of this historic town.

Accommodation: Hotel Oaxaca Real or Hotel Victoria

Oaxaca is arguably the most famed region in Mexico for its cuisine and we get more acquainted with it as we head for a cooking class, learning dishes that can easily be recreated at home. After visiting the market in Teotitlán del Valle to collect ingredients, we don our aprons and get cooking!

The exact menu can change but we generally learn how to make two types of tortilla, three salsas, guacamole, mole, a starter, soup, dessert and drink.

The afternoon is free to enjoy Oaxaca at leisure.

Accommodation: Hotel Oaxaca Real or Hotel Victoria

We return today to the village of Teotitlán del Valle, known for its colourful, handwoven rugs. Freshly dyed wool threads adorn the houses as they dry in the sun and await the next stage of the production process.

From here, we continue to a distillery in the small village of Santiago Matatlán to taste the agave-derived spirit, mezcal. Produced from the agave plant after it has blossomed the first time, the liquor always contains more than 40% alcohol and is not for the faint-hearted! After the tasting, we drive to Tehuantepec, where we spend the night (total drive time: about five hours plus stops).

Accommodation: Hotel Calli (or similar)

We drive (about six hours plus stops) to San Cristóbal de las Casas – or just San Cristóbal – one of the most popular cities in Mexico with visitors. It is filled with cobblestone alleys of whitewashed buildings with red-tiled roofs that lead to plazas and picturesque arcades.

Arriving in San Cristóbal in the afternoon, we have a short orientation tour of the historic city before checking into our hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel Casa Mexicana or Hotel Diego Mazariegos

Today is a free day to explore San Cristóbal at your own pace. Wander the colonial streets, take in the lively cafes, or buy handicrafts produced by the local Tzotzil indigenous groups with their different colourful dress. It’s also possible to take an optional boat trip through the Sumidero Canyon and/or visit one of the traditional Maya communities who live in the villages surrounding the city (see money section for prices).

Accommodation: Hotel Casa Mexicana or Hotel Diego Mazariegos

Day of the Dead is possibly the most vibrant and colourful tribute to human mortality there is. Mexicans honour the dead, especially close relatives, by visiting graves and congregating around headstones to lay edible offerings alongside mounds of golden marigolds.

To fully immerse ourselves in the festival, we visit cemeteries around San Cristóbal to see altars and tributes and plan to visit markets and bakeries selling ornaments and Day of the Dead essentials – a great chance to sample specialities only on offer at this time of year.

Our day also includes time in Romerillo, a Chamulan village where the Day of the Dead traditions haven’t changed in many years – providing us with a very authentic Day of the Dead experience.

Traditionally, 31 October is for cleaning graves. They are made to look fresh and planks of wood are placed on top to represent doors.

On 1 November, the festivities begin. Offerings are made to the dead, typically their favourite food and drink, while the ‘doors’ are opened so friends and family can have conversations with their loved ones. There is mourning but also smiles and laughter – the experience is overwhelmingly life affirming and uplifting.

In Romerillo, the cemetery is also covered with huge blue wooden crosses decorated in chrysanthemums, which makes for a very colourful view.

Accommodation: Hotel Casa Mexicana or Hotel Diego Mazariegos

We depart San Cristóbal de las Casas early and spend much of today on the road as we head to Palenque. We break the journey (six to seven hours) at Roberto Barrios Waterfalls, hidden in the sub-tropical jungle of Chiapas state. Here, water cascades along several hundred metres of beautiful flora and there’s time for lunch and a dip in the turquoise-blue plunge pools and rock basins.

After our stop, it’s a further 1hr 10min to Palenque, a town named after the impressive ruins nearby.

Accommodation: Hotel La Aldea del Halach Huinic (or similar)

Emerging from the jungles of Chiapas is one of the most impressive ruins in Mexico: the Maya site of Palenque. The temples, sanctuaries and pyramids, with their sculptured walls and ceilings, are some of the best-preserved and finest examples of Maya buildings despite the city-state having peaked in the seventh century.

We explore this magnificent site before continuing to the Yucatán Peninsula and the Caribbean town of Campeche (about six hours plus stops).

A Unesco World Heritage site, this colonial town has impressive city walls built to protect it from constant attacks by English and Dutch buccaneers and pirates during the 16^th and 17^th centuries.

Accommodation: Hotel Lopez (or similar)

About 2hr 30min drive from Campeche is our second Maya site: Uxmal. Quite open, it is in contrast to the jungle ruins of Palenque we visited yesterday. This site, which dates to the late classic era (500CE-800CE) features: the Pyramid of the Magician; the Nunnery Quadrangle, with long, elaborately carved facades; and a ball court, where a traditional ball game was played, sometimes ending in human sacrifice.

Having worked up an appetite, we have lunch at a local Maya family restaurant. Here we can eat the classic Yucatan dishes pollo pibil and cochinita pibil – slowly cooked chicken and pork. The meat is roasted for about five hours with achiote paste and wrapped in banana leaves.

After lunch, it’s about 1hr 30min drive to Mérida. Several of the city buildings, including the cathedral, were built using Maya stones found on this site and, along with traditional colonial architecture, features 19^th-century houses built in a French style.

Accommodation: Hotel Caribe (or similar)

In the morning, we embark on a walking tour of Mérida, before heading out of the city to the traditional Maya village of Tixkokob, where local families practise the age-old craft of hammock weaving.

After learning how their hammocks are made, we continue to Izamal. Once a Maya settlement, the town is now formed of yellow-and-white buildings and is known for the 16^th-century Franciscan monastery built on top of the base of a huge Maya pyramid.

From here, we transfer to Chichén Itzá, possibly the best-known and most impressive of all Maya sites (total drive: about four hours plus stops).

Accommodation: Hotel Chichén Itzá or Hotel Puerta Chichén

Our trip ends in style, with a visit to the Maya temple city: Chichén Itzá. Spending last night near to the site means we can get in early before the hordes of day-trippers arriving from the beach resorts.

Chichén Itzá served as the political and economic centre of the Maya civilisation and thrived from around 600CE to 1200CE. It’s home to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World: El Castillo (also known as the Pyramid of Kukulkan), plus temples and a great ball court.

This afternoon, we drive about 3hr 30min to Cancún airport, where the tour ends. If you want to spend more time in this glorious part of the world, speak to your sales representative about extending your stay.

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